Lardo in La Condesa

Experience Iberian cuisine and Mexican flavors at romantic Lardo in Condesa.

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There is no going to Mexico City and not talking about food. But there is Mexican food and food in Mexico City. Beyond the well appreciated tacos, burritos and other Tex-Mex offers Americans are used to, I was lucky enough to sample some of the local Mediterranean inspired fare in Condesa that left me wanting more and filled my heart with joy and delight.

 

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First, Lardo. It was meant to be. My Airbnb was located right above the restaurant. No brainer kinda thing, right? Not always. Maybe a good indicator was the line at brunch time on Saturdays there (and brunch in DF is not at a lazy noon or 1pm, it is a 10 am business matter). Inconspicuously situated at the corner of Agustin Melgar and Durango street, Lardo has all the romantic bells and whistles to dine with style. Located around a corner and at a roundabout, it offers a view to the lucky ones sitting by its large French doors/windows opening on the streets, beautifully guarded by green plants to offer some privacy to diners. The décor is simple, old French country house, with its rustic wood round tables and chairs, its square bar and kitchen at the center. If you can’t get a seat at a table, get to the bar and sit on the kitchen side, you’ll enjoy some entertainment in addition to your dish; watching cooks and chefs put together the dishes is fun, and you learn how the specialties of the house are made, especially those you didn’t order. The simple menu offers a wide range of dishes, with something for all tastes, from classic dishes such as eggplant parmesan and pizzas to typical Spanish staples like “Iberico” ham and grilled octopus or squid.

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The ambiance is busy but charming and service is fast. There is a coffee shop and a bakery in one corner of the restaurant so feel free to enjoy a cappuccino while you wait for your order. Fresh bread, deliciously doused with olive oil and paprika accompany almost all orders, and that alone makes the trip worth it. Food comes in vintage blue and red plates decorated with country scenes, ornate forks and knives remind me of those my own parents used to have when I was a child (I used to think they were so boring, now I am looking for these at thrift stores – sad!). Water bottles all contain a fresh sprig of rosemary and a beautiful bouquet of flamboyant flowers occupies the corner of the bar.

This is a popular place, for locals and foreigners, which explain how I was rescued from a Spanish debacle by a nice waiter handing me an English copy of the menu. I had the roasted eggplant, tomatoes, anchovies and burrata cheese salad accompanied by some ham croquettes.

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The tomato salad was amazing; a delicious mix of marinated and fresh tomatoes, heavily tossed in a balsamic dressing with at its center the roasted and pureed eggplant, and the covered with a light layer of anchovies and fresh burrata cheese. The first bite takes you and never let you go, if only to grab some of the offered bread to soak up the juices in your plate. The “croquetas de jamón” are all you expect them to be: golden brown and crispy outside, warm, soft and salty inside, with a savory potato and Iberic ham puree. Just the right amount of smooth and sharp for a bright lunch.

 

LardoCalle Agustin Melgar 6, Condesa, Cuauhtémoc, CDMX, Mexico