Epic Train Ride: From Abidjan to Ouagadougou
Take one of the oldest trains in Africa and discover another way to experience the continent.
Burkina Faso is to Cote D’Ivoire what Mexico is to the U.S. A country full of “Men with integrity” as their motto says, that has many emigrate to their southern cousin for better work opportunities. Having family ties there myself, I however only visited very few times in my childhood. I had not been back in 19 years. So while on a visit back home last year, I decided on a spur of the moment visit to Ouagadougou, the capital. Spur of the moment trips will certainly hurt your wallet no matter where you are and it didn’t fail this time. I had the choice between a $500 round trip ticket for a one-hour plane ride or a $145 RT 2-days train ride through the country. With little money and a lot of time I had, the math was quickly done. Adventure, here I come!
The rail system in Cote D’Ivoire is really in its infancy, at least when it comes to transporting people. It was initially created to move goods, mining products, and cattle but soon people joined as exchanges with the neighboring country increased. The line Abidjan - Ouagadougou is the only train line in the country, crossing from south to north, and linking most major cities in both countries every two days.
One thing to stress is that getting a ticket can be challenging on such a busy line that basically serves the whole country and it is highly recommended to purchase early. There is no official way to buy even with a price increase but there is always the possibility to make something happen if you have the right connections.
With my first class ticket in pocket, I arrived at the train station in Treichville on a Tuesday morning. As soon as you get to the parking lot, get ready to be assailed by porters looking to carry your luggage to the train for you; many women use the line as their main transport with huge bags full of merchandises that they will probably sell once in Ouagadougou.
$70 is a pretty steep cost for locals there and I really didn’t know what to expect when I heard there was even a first class. Nonetheless, it was a pleasant surprised find out that first digs were also part of the cost with a designated waiting room and free breakfast. You could enjoy a sweet breakfast in a room with an air conditioner and flat screens tvs with cable.
While you relax in the waiting room, a train company porter will come and carry your suitcases to the train docks before your ride shows up. Very soon it is time to go and first class gets first pass.
First class, at the head of the train cars, up the dock, dragging your luggage behind you on the pavement.
There is only one first class car and it fits comfortably 2 dozens of travelers. You get a spacious cabin with air conditioned, a TV, and what we all hope for while during commercial travel, leather reclining seats.
What to expect
Keep in mind that the trip will take 2 longs days with multiple stops along the way. Space is at a premium and the train cars are not handicap accessible.
Bring sleeping gear: A good shawl or light blanket, a pillow and even a sleep mask for the MANY naps you will take.
Watch your luggage: Luggage is kept in the same car in a designated compartment ahead of the cabin for safety and you will see many people opening their luggage during the 2 days trip. Keep an eye open and make sure cases and bags are always locked.
Limited access to sanitation: Regarding facilities, the toilet is basically what I would call a “straight to tracks” system. However there are also facilities at some of the stations along the way so prepare accordingly.
Limited health services: Please be aware that while there is a nurse onboard, the services offered are basic and rudimentary. In cases of emergency, you will probably have to get off the train and reach the nearest hospital by car so make sure to pack all your medication for the trip.
Bring your own food or at least be prepared to purchase on the street. The kitchen is only good if you intend to survive on beer and soda for the whole 2 days. Some large families came prepared with coolers containing food and drinks and were clearly aware of the limited options aboard unlike someone else.
Customs will search your luggage: On the return leg to Abidjan, expect to have your luggage searched by customs for undeclared or uncleared merchandise. Souvenirs are ok as long as you are not carrying a full suitcase of them.
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One thing every traveler should know is that there are multiple police checks along the way over the two travel days, and these will happen at any time of the day or night. Police, border police and customs agents will regularly board the train, collect ID cards and passports to be picked up at the next stop’s police check 30-45 mins later. It is all part of the adventure and patience is definitely part of the game. For the next two days of the trip, I focused on taking a few pictures of the places we crossed.
Niangoloko station
A furry friend I made while grabbing a quick coffee at a little stand during one of our stops.
Markets settle near the train station and it is a great opportunity for travelers to shop for food and gifts.
Because the train crosses Cote D’Ivoire from south to north, you will get a chance to sample a bit of the food of each region during stops, although time sometimes only allow for grilled meats sandwiches sold around the train stations. It is also the time to buy gifts and regional crafts like traditional woven “Baoule” blankets in Bouake or colorful woven baskets at the border with Burkina Faso.
As they say, it is not the destination, it is the journey that matters. This 2 day crossing will give you another perspective of travel in an African country if you prepare ahead and bring an adventurous spirit. Discovering two countries at once in their most colorful, rural and definitely real corners is an experience of a lifetime that I encourage everyone to try. You will not regret it!
